BY ALEJANDRA BORBOLLA
Burritos de Machaca
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April sixth is Burrito Day. Did you know in Spanish, a donkey is an animal, so “burrito” would be “small donkey”? And no, it’s not because they contain the meat of this animal! So, how did they come to be called that?
Some say that a Mexican man named Juan Méndez from Ciudad Juarez Chihuahua used a burro to carry provisions for his food cart to offer something cheap, plentiful, and easy to eat without utensils or plates. To keep it warm, he wrapped it in a homemade flour tortilla, and that’s how it became popular. But, this story is probably a legend (like many other stories about Mexican food). The theory is that this dish got its name because it was sold from a cart pulled by donkeys. While it might be true that Juan Méndez sold burritos from a burro cart or had something to do with how popular they became, it’s unlikely that he created the burrito.
“The Dictionary of “Mexicanisms”” has an entry for a burrito from 1895, many years before Juan’s time. The entry says that a burrito is “A tortilla rolled with meat or other ingredients inside, called ‘cocito’ in Yucatán and ‘taco’ in Cuernavaca and Mexico City.” The term burrito was popular in Guanajuato, a state in central Mexico. Since the dictionary entry is the only solid and quick evidence we have to show where burritos come from, the idea that they originated in Guanajuato seems most probable. Another theory suggests that the incorporation of women into the workforce and changes in work dynamics that made it impossible to go home for lunch began to proliferate this preparation as part of regional fast food in Ciudad Juarez.
Every region has its own variants, although the base is beans and some stew wrapped in flour tortillas. Hermosillo, for example, is known as the place where the “burro norteño percherón” originated: a flour tortilla (sobaquera) so large it covers from hand to armpit (sobaco), filled with grilled meat, cheese, guacamole, tomato, vegetables, green chili, and sauces. In the city, the Burros de la 7 are famous, where they prepare a burrito filled with another burrito and that weighs the same as a baby.
In Baja California, machaca burritos are common; in Sinaloa, those with chilorio or mochomos; in Sonora, those with chili, machaca in sauce or egg.
Many housewives in Baja California Sur prepare the famous burritos and give them to their sons, daughters, and husbands to take when they don’t have time to eat. Sometimes they return with one or several burritos, hearing the phrase from mom, “You just took the burritos out for a walk.” Now they are called “Walked Burritos” (burritos paseados) for those that are taken in their plastic bag or aluminum foil, either to eat when traveling or to take to the beach.
Although there will be those who make burritos with corn tortillas, it is not the same since corn tortillas can become harder than flour ones over time. This is why flour tortillas are recommended. Also, packed burritos develop a better flavor. The reason is unknown.
Machaca is typical of the northern part of the country. Its name comes from the action of mashing the meat with a stone or stick instead of cutting it. It is a salted beef, sun-dried, and has been prepared in this way since the 18th century to preserve it for daily consumption or for long periods. Burritos de machaca are the most popular in Baja California Sur.
Ingredients:
- 3 tbsp oil
- 1 clove garlic
- 2 cups refried beans
- 1 cup white onion
- 1 cup cubed potato
- 2 cups machaca (dried meat)
- 1 cup tomato purée
- 1/2 cup sliced pickled serrano peppers
- 12 tortillas
Preparation:
- Heat a tablespoon of oil in a skillet, add the garlic and sauté. Add the refried beans and cook them with the garlic.
- Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in another skillet and sauté the onion, and cook the cubed potato for 5 minutes. Add the machaca, pour the tomato purée and cook for 10 minutes. Put aside and add the sliced pickled serrano peppers.
- Spread the tortilla and fill it by placing the beans in the center and the machaca stew on top.
- Fold the tortilla from end to end and roll it into a burrito to prevent the filling from leaking out.
- Heat the burritos on a comal or a skillet with no oil until they turn golden brown. Cut in half and serve.
I am always happy to hear from you at ale.borbolla@gringogazette.com buen provecho!!
