Casa Morelos

An Enchanting Little Hotel in Todos Santos

BY SAM BORBOLLA

The very first thing that we noticed from Casa Morelos was the inviting view of the pool we got from the opposing sidewalk. We were walking towards Juárez street; Todos Santos’s main street, where Hotel California is, and first I glanced to my right, halting my party for a second to properly notice the thin sliver of turquoise from the water, it’s white and blue tiles adorning the edge of the pool and the white wall that served as a sober backdrop of this almost too serene picture.

We decided to go in and realized that the pool was way to the back of the hotel; this means the view we got from the outside was unrestricted from the rest of the hotel’s ground floor and passed through its pool lounge, reception and a small gallery at the very front.

The first thing we noticed when going in was how quiet everything got; yes I know Todos Santos is not Calcutta during rush hour, however, the light street noises that accompany this gem of a town in December disappeared the moment we entered the gallery. From there, Jorge, the receptionist in turn, kindly greeted us and began asking us questions like where we were from, how long we have been in Todos Santos, and if we wanted to see the hotel’s rooms and spaces. We said yes almost in unison and Jorge proceeded to show us a bit of the ground floor first. I immediately went to the pool because it was what drew me to pay attention to the place; however on my way there, I saw the place’s kitchen and was enchanted by its alluring simplicity. The minimal approach to a place of creation, such as a kitchen, immediately drew my attention towards its center island. Polished concrete and nothing more. It was almost as if the architect had poured the mix right there, then started sculpting it by hand and left it to dry. It was made of polished concrete but seemed as if made in clay and fired inside a kiln.

What is made of clay are the cups, plates and pots that adorn the back wall. It’s a sight to behold on its own and as the first glance of the rest of the hotel’s rooms and personalities, it sets the tone for the entirety of the tour. The rest of the ground floor is delicately splattered with finishes and touches that clamor for attention, nevertheless not overwhelming the senses, and calmly waiting to be admired. The pool is modest yet inviting; a couple of chaise lounges three pairs of wooden pool chairs and two inflatable pool doughnuts just waiting adrift.

We followed Jorge to the first room and even though the general style of the hotel sets a color palette, we were amazed by the room’s combination of textures and fine touches of personality; touches that we were going to see in each bedroom and never repeated in any of the others. The bed sits atop a polished concrete box and its headboard is concrete with a unique set of tiles that make up the outer margin of the board. Everything in the room circles a style that I define best as: stylishly austere. The faucets are naked copper plumbing with bright red industrial handles and most of the bathroom furniture is; you guessed it, polished concrete as well. Albeit some wood on the shelves to give a splash of earthen colors to entertain the eye. Every room we entered gave of its own vibe; from the larger rooms with a terrace that made you question the need for a room at all, to the room with tinted windows that puts up a light show in two walls at different times of day. Access to the terrace was by the way of a small corridor dotted with the shadows of pristine white towels that were drying in the clothesline above, almost making you feel as if in a Greek neighborhood with someone screaming OPA!, as you walked by a door. The view from the terrace is something that is best described as a sea of rooftops gallantly spreading before the deep blue sea. There is a small table made from used wooden pallets surrounded by sewn sacks for guests to sit and enjoy dusk while looking out at sea. On our way down, Jorge took us through another route, he explained that the way we had gone passed through some; unoccupied of course, bedrooms and the route we were descending on was unrestricted by other guests’ chambers. He explained us on this last leg of the tour that the architect and owners of the hotel had put special effort in making it feel as honest and as down to earth as possible to ensure that every guest was more concerned about having enough space in their rooms to enjoy its entirety and appreciate the experience that the hotel evoked rather than worrying about check in times and sophisticated furniture. This is a place to stay if you want to feel as if you’ve woken up at your best friend’s guest house, who; dare I say has an impeccable taste and a kitchen to die for. The hotel is located in Morelos street, just half a block southeast of Juarez’s street towards Colegio Militar Street. They pride in their hospitality and originality. Believe me when I say they excel at both. Try them for a night, you’ll make some friends, that I promise.