Mexico has magic in its warm drinks, and atole and champurrado are probably at the top of the list. Although very similar, they are not the same and can easily be confused. Champurrado is a type of atole, we could say, but once champurrado, it can never go back to being atole—if that makes sense.
The origin of atole goes back as far as ten thousand years ago, tied to the domestication of corn, a cornerstone of Mexican gastronomy. The earliest recipes and ways of consumption were recorded in one of Hernán Cortés’s five letters to Spanish Emperor Carlos V. He explained that the (now Mexican) natives drank a thick, energetic concoction made mostly of corn but also honey and chiles—essentially referring to atole. Back then, it was called “atolli” or “tol” which means watery or runny. Over time, it began to thicken as the corn masa was brought to a boil.
In another narrative, Fray Bernardino de Sahagún explained in his writings that “atolli” came from *atl* (water) and *toloa* (eating or swallowing). The drink evolved with its context, consumed in daily life, rituals, or even as sustenance for nursing the sick back to health. Today, atole is perceived as a drink, but in the pre-Hispanic period, it was considered an actual meal, dense with nutrition. Fray Bernardino’s writings also mention that atole was sold scalding hot or cold, prepared with a variety of ingredients like corn masa, ground tortillas, burnt and ground corn husks, beans, chiles, lime water, and more. The ingredients and recipes often varied depending on the social status of the consumer, highlighting how class and access shaped gastronomy. When atole was part of rituals, it was served in intricately decorated gourds, elevating its significance beyond mere sustenance.
When the Spanish arrived in what we now call Mexico, they weren’t enthusiastic about atole. Over time, and as part of the cultural exchange, the recipe began to include milk, which is the version we know today. Atole still retains its reputation as a humble drink for the people, in contrast to the more luxurious connotation of chocolate, which was traditionally reserved for the upper classes. This distinction is immortalized in the Mexican saying, “Más vale atole con risas que chocolate con lágrimas”—I’d rather have atole and laugh than chocolate and cry—reflecting the idea that a simple, joyful life is better than one filled with riches and sorrow. While the saying isn’t as commonly used anymore, it’s one of those charming phrases you might hear from a traditional grandma or grandpa.
Over time, the preparation of atole shifted again, incorporating rice flour or cornstarch along with milk, sugar, piloncillo, and modern flavors like strawberry, vanilla, or cinnamon. Today, it’s easy to find instant atole packets in supermarkets, which only require milk and a quick boil. While convenient, these instant mixes don’t quite capture the warmth and soul of the traditional preparation.
Champurrado, on the other hand, has always held a more ceremonial significance. It was used by the Aztecs in rituals, made with a base of corn masa and cacao beans, with absolutely no sweetener since sugar was introduced much later. This ritualistic preparation was thick and robust, meant to sustain warriors and offer energy during ceremonies. The difference between atole and champurrado lies in their base ingredients—champurrado is thickened with masa and always includes chocolate, while atole can be flavored in countless ways.
Traditionally, champurrado is cooked in clay pots, which help retain heat and add a subtle earthy flavor. It is often paired with tamales, especially in the early mornings or as the evening chill sets in. This pairing is as traditional as it gets, reflecting the harmony of ancestral recipes still thriving today. Many Mexicans begin and end their day with champurrado. It’s a hearty, comforting drink that fills an empty stomach, energizes the body, and soothes the soul.
Modern-day champurrado holds its temperature for a long time thanks to its thick consistency, making it ideal for those on the go. Some like to add milk for a creamier texture. I personally do but it’s not obligatory. Despite modern twists and shortcuts, champurrado remains one of those recipes that stays true to its roots, a little piece of ancient history in a cup.
Whether enjoyed on a bustling street corner or at home with loved ones, champurrado reminds us of Mexico’s enduring culinary traditions. It’s more than a drink. It’s a warm hug from our past that connects us to our culture, our people, and our stories.
Ingredients:
- 4 cups milk
- 2 ounces piloncillo, plus more to taste (can be substituted with brown sugar)
- 2 (3-ounce) discs Mexican chocolate
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 1 1/2 cups warm water
- 1/2 cup corn masa
- 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
- 1 pinch salt
Procedure:
- Add milk, piloncillo, Mexican chocolate, and cinnamon stick to a medium saucepan or pot. Heat over low-medium heat until the piloncillo and chocolate have completely dissolved. Stir frequently to make sure nothing sticks to the bottom of the saucepan.
- Remove and discard the cinnamon stick, using a strainer if it has broken into pieces.
- In a small bowl, add warm water and corn masa. Whisk together until the mixture is smooth.
- Add the masa mixture, vanilla extract, and salt to the saucepan. Whisk to combine.
- Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to low, and continue to cook, whisking frequently, for 25-30 minutes until thick, creamy, velvety, and smooth. The champurrado should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
- Serve and garnish with a touch of ground cinnamon or a cinnamon stick.
Pro tip: Don’t forget to whisk! Make sure to whisk vigorously throughout the whole process to help get the drink as smooth and velvety as possible. The champurrado should be completely smooth and not grainy. If it’s still a little grainy, continue whisking until it becomes smooth.
You can store it in the fridge once it has cooled in an airtight container. It will thicken up quite a lot. To “revive”, you can add more milk or water as it is brought up to a boil again until you reach desired consistency.
I am always available and happy to hear from you at ale.borbolla@gringogazette.com Happy cooking!
