A Day On The East Cape

It gets easier as more of it gets paved

The weather has cooled down nicely and it was time to take the motorcycle for a spin along the East Cape. I headed over the bridge past the estuary and out of San Jose towards La Playa and the new marina. Make a left at the first roundabout at the foot of the bridge, and then continue on the paved road that runs for less than half a mile, then you have a choice of making a right to the marina or a left. The left will take you out to the East Cape. The road is nicely paved finally, and fairly scenic, running for about 25 minutes and then cutting back towards the ocean and then turning into a gravel, dirt and sandy beach road.

The scenery is always great and the road can be driven easily by even a two wheel drive. There's quite a few river beds to stop at and you can spend a day fishing off the shore or just sunbathing on the beach.  There's usually quite a bit of domesticated free range wildlife. With the moist fall we've had, along with the late summer rains, there's lots of vegetation so the goats, cows and horses are looking pretty healthy.

You can make your way up the scenic coastline and then zoom down the paved road

I came along a herd of goats, at least 40 of them, about halfway to shipwreck. I stopped the motorcycle and the herd split, with about two-thirds of them to the left up along the hill beside the road. The other third just stared and bleated at me. This went on for a minute or two before I could get the camera out, and It looked like an old fashioned standoff. There were two or three adults keeping an eye on things and the rest were kids. They gave me time to take a few pictures and then headed away, bleating at me the whole time. The scenery is always great.

Clear waters, breaking waves, and mostly undisturbed natural desert beauty. In 10 more minutes I was at the Hotel Vidasoul by Shipwreck. It’s very nice, but we liked it when it was nothing but a lean-to and called The Crossroads Country Club. People would see it on the map and drive out thinking it was, well, a country club. They had wifi way out there and the best shrimp sandwiches in Mexico. It’s often windy there and their dog would somehow know who had potato chips in danger of blowing off the table and he would stake out that table. He was a wise old dog. Nowadays it’s a modern restaurant and very nice modern hotel, often with live music. I’ts a great weekend retreat.

It was still fairly early when I got there, maybe 9 a.m. when I pulled in the parking lot. They had just raked it and the sand was a little soft. My front wheel dug in and I just about dumped the bike, I ended up honking the horn but kept it upright. One of the waiters was watching while sweeping the front steps and he smiled and asked if I was okay. I had a coffee and an omelette, and talked to them about their Saturday night live band. They said they had just started up the week before and expected to have it once every two weeks on Saturday nights.

I continued heading east which took me up to Cabo Pulmo. I did a drive-through of the tiny town with a year round population of 28, and it was nice to see the divers loading up gear for a day of scuba diving.

Sadly, there is a lot more barbed wire on the East Cape than there ever used to be, and you can chalk that up to the Mexican squatting laws. With all the development, and the paved roads, and electricity wires going up, the land has become more valuable; If you don’t have your property fenced off, you just might lose it to Squatters. There are a number of watch men hanging out in broken down old trailers who don’t even know who they’re working for: Squatters squatting and chalking up their time before it becomes theirs, or owners trying to keep squatters away. They’re given a cell phone and told to call if anyone comes sniffing around.

Continuing on my way, within about 15 minutes I was driving through La Rebiera, then back out onto the paved highway for the quick trip back to San Jose.

This trip is well worth the drive. Make sure you don't tell the people you rent the car from that you went off the paved road and remember to take water. If someone has stopped, don't hesitate to say hello and make sure they’re OK. Usually they are out for the same adventure.