Did you know the pumpkins that are the star of your Thanksgiving celebration are Mexican? It’s one of the oldest seeds in history, dating back to 7,000 years ago, found in a Mexican cave in the Tehuacán Valley, and have been a key element in the development of nutrition in our culture.
Pumpkins were essential to the first Mexican peoples, as the cultivation and processing of their seeds allowed them to be carried everywhere, facilitating their cultivation and domestication throughout Aridoamerica and Mesoamerica. The Mexica and Maya used pumpkin seeds year-round for various purposes.
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The domestication of the pumpkin seed brought about the development of a tool to contain and wash the seeds with water, as well as the use of a detergent to carry water in such containers. The xicallis or jícaras were perfect for this task. Among the four subspecies of pumpkins, *Cucurbita pepo* is a 100% Mexican species, which includes ornamental squashes and their flowers. That delicious flower, which we still enjoy in quesadillas, was introduced to Europe and Asia by the Spanish, where the green fruit from central Mexico and the orange fruit from the north were both adopted for human consumption.
In Nahuatl, pumpkins are known as *ayotli*, *cozticayotli*, *tamalayotli*, and *tzilacayotli*; in Mayan, as *dzot* and *k’uum*; in Zapotec, as *güiches* or *güichas*; while in South America they are called *zapallos* or *caboshas*, and in English-speaking countries as *squashes*, *pumpkins*, or *gourds*. In Mexico, there are 11 wild varieties of pumpkins, five of which are endemic. These wild pumpkins are not edible for humans due to high levels of cucurbitacins, which make them bitter, though they are suitable for animal consumption. In rural areas, the fruits have traditional medicinal uses and are even used as soap.
The *Cucurbita pepo*, known as the güicha squash, Castilla squash, tsol squash, Indian squash, and calabacita, is the most widely cultivated pumpkin species globally, largely due to its early domestication. It encompasses the greatest diversity of cultivated pumpkins for vegetables, edible fruits, ornamental uses, and holds the most commercial importance worldwide.
Pumpkins display great diversity in the size, shape, and color of their fruits, as well as in the size of their seeds. They have traditionally been cultivated alongside maize, and to this day, they are highly valued for the flavor, texture, and sweetness of their flesh. The seeds, flowers, and stems are also consumed.
The chilacayote or chilacayota (*Cucurbita ficifolia*) has less diversity than other species but shows significant variation in fruit size, with black or white seeds. Its tender fruits are used as a vegetable, and mature fruits are made into crystallized sweets or *chilacayota* water, a traditional drink from Oaxaca. The wild ancestor of this species and its exact domestication origin remain unknown, though high biological variation observed in Peru suggests it may have been domesticated in the Andean region.
Originating in South America, this type of pumpkin has numerous local varieties and edible commercial cultivars, as well as some ornamental ones. In Mexico, some commercial varieties are cultivated in the states of Sinaloa and Sonora.
Native pumpkin varieties are cultivated in practically all agricultural regions of Mexico, growing alongside maize and beans, as well as in family gardens and backyards. Their culinary uses are diverse: tender shoots are eaten as *quelites* in soups or stews; flowers are used in soups, quesadillas, creams, and as stuffed ingredients. The pulp is used to make sweets, *atoles*, fresh waters, and pastries.
Additionally, the seeds—roasted, cooked, or boiled—are enjoyed as snacks, used in stews, tamales, sweets, as garnish, or as complements in other dishes. In some regions, the fruit, seeds, and roots have medicinal uses.
There are different species of domesticated pumpkins, as well as traditional types such as the Italian pumpkin, one of the most popular, which is consumed in a wide variety of dishes and broths. Its seeds are often used to make *pipián* and different types of *mole*.
Finally, pumpkin flowers are also consumed, as they are rich in calcium and phosphorus and are recommended for people with osteoporosis. They also contain potassium, iron, magnesium, vitamin A, B-complex vitamins (B1, B2, B3), vitamin C, and folic acid. They are considered part of a healthy diet due to their low caloric content and help prevent cardiovascular diseases and act as antioxidants. In pregnant women, they support the baby’s development.
The cultivation and use of pumpkin seeds also enabled the development of techniques to make the most of the entire product, allowing them to be enjoyed roasted, cooked, or boiled as a snack, or added to stews, tamales, sweets, and other dishes. Additionally, the fruit, seeds, and roots may also have medicinal purposes.
Ingredients:
1 medium pumpkin, approximately 4-5 pounds
2 small cones of piloncillo, approximately 500 grams
3 sticks of Mexican cinnamon, whole or cut in half
1 orange, sliced (optional)
4 cups of water
Procedure:
Cut the pumpkin into 3″ sections, each piece. If you prefer to use the seeds separately, remove the seeds and strings, or you can also cook them with the syrup. Place the piloncillo cones, cinnamon sticks, and orange slices in a large, heavy pot.
Add four cups of water and turn the heat to medium-high until it starts to boil. The piloncillo cones will begin to dissolve; stir occasionally. Once the piloncillo has dissolved, place some pieces of pumpkin with the skin side down and then the rest of the pumpkin with the skin side up. If you see that the pieces are not covered with the piloncillo liquid, don’t worry; the pumpkin will release some of its own juices, and the steam will also help with the cooking.
Lower the heat, cover the pot, and simmer. Cook for about 20-30 minutes; it will be ready when the pumpkin is tender and has absorbed some of the syrups.
Once the pumpkin is cooked, remove it from the pot with a large, slotted spoon and transfer it to a tray, covering it with aluminum foil to keep it warm while the syrup continues to cook and reduce.
Return the syrup to a boil, turning the heat to medium-high. Keep cooking, stirring occasionally, until it thickens. Return the pieces of pumpkin to the pot and add spoonfuls of syrup all over the pumpkin.
Serve the pumpkin hot or at room temperature with a drizzle of syrup or on a warm plate with milk. The pumpkin flavors will be even better the next day, so save some for later.
Enjoy a very Mexican dessert and find me at ale.borbolla@gringogazette.com I’m always happy to hear from you and receive your pictures, questions and Mexican food experiences!
