Catemaco (kah-teh-MAH-koh) is a city in the municipality of the same name located in the southern part of the Mexican state of Veracruz. The city is situated on Lake Catemaco, within the municipality that stretches north to the Gulf of Mexico. Catemaco is a tourist destination, with its main attractions being the lake, the remnants of the region’s tropical rainforest, and a tradition of witchcraft that has roots dating back to the pre-Hispanic period.
Veracruz has a significant place in history because of its witches, whose origins date back to before the arrival of the Spanish. With the arrival of the Spanish and African slaves, there was a cultural clash between local medicine and African Santería, which generated the magical syncretism of Catemaco.
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The arrival of the Spanish to Veracruz in the early 16th century marked the beginning of significant cultural and demographic changes in the region. Led by Hernán Cortés, the Spanish established Veracruz as a key port for their colonial efforts, which included the conquest of the Aztec Empire. As the Spanish imposed their rule, the indigenous population suffered drastic declines due to disease, overwork, and violence. To supplement the labor force, the Spanish began importing African slaves, making Veracruz a major hub in the transatlantic slave trade.
African slaves brought their own cultural practices, religions, and traditions, which mixed with indigenous customs and Spanish colonial influences, leading to a unique cultural fusion. This blending of traditions is evident in Veracruz’s music, dance, cuisine, and religious practices, such as the syncretic forms of spirituality that incorporate elements from all three cultures. Today, Veracruz’s cultural landscape reflects this complex history of colonization, resistance, and cultural exchange, with Afro-Mexican communities continuing to maintain distinct cultural identities.
Its main festival is celebrated every first Friday of March, known as the “land of the witches” festival. On this day, people cross the lake in boats with lit torches heading towards Cerro del Mono Blanco, where a ritual is performed that has transcended borders and attracted many visitors. The main protagonists of Catemaco are the heritage of the Olmecs, with their esoteric rites and traditions, alongside the presence of natural medicine and pre-Hispanic rituals.
Witches, shamans, sorcerers, and healers are not the same, although they are often confused. Witchcraft is associated with black magic; healers work with herbalism and its healing properties; and shamans mainly practice spiritual work, known as white magic.
Its name comes from the Nahuatl words “Calli” (houses) and “Tematli” (to burn), meaning “Place of Burned Houses,” a name derived from one of the eruptions of the San Martín volcano.
Among the variety of dishes in Veracruz cuisine is “Carne de Chango”, a hidden treasure in the Los Tuxtlas region. “Carne de Chango” is cooked on a griddle or grilled over coals, and served on a plate with modest side dishes that might include salad, rice, beans, or fried plantains. It can also be used to prepare tacos, “memelas”, and the traditional “picadas jarochas”.
According to traditional cooks, the secret to its flavor is in the way the meat is cooked or served, not in the type of animal from which these delicious steaks are obtained, as despite its exotic name, it is not made from any monkey or primate.
The name “Carne de Chango” can be explained by the exotic landscapes surrounding the Los Tuxtlas region in the state of Veracruz, where this typical Veracruz dish is prepared.
Although there is no uniform version among traditional cooks, it is believed that the name comes from the fact that the meat was originally not from pigs but from monkeys that inhabit the Veracruz jungle. However, over time, the consumption of monkey meat ceased due to regulations protecting the species.
Others claim that the name is simply an eye-catching way to refer to the meat, due to its reddish color and the peculiar flavor it acquires from the way it is marinated. Additionally, it serves as a joke for tourists who try it for the first time.
Ingredients:
- 1 kg (2.2 lbs.) of pork (typically shoulder or leg cuts)
- 10-15 fresh guava leaves
- 4 cloves of garlic, minced
- 1 medium onion, chopped
- 2 tablespoons of achiote paste (annatto)
- 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil
- 1 teaspoon of cumin
- 1 teaspoon of oregano
- 1 teaspoon of black pepper
- Salt to taste
- 1 cup of orange juice
- 1/2 cup of vinegar
- 2 tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce
- Neutral oil for frying (quantity depends on your pan)
- Instructions:
1. Prepare the Marinade: In a bowl, mix the orange juice, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, minced garlic, cumin, oregano, black pepper, and salt. Add the achiote paste and stir until well combined.
2. Marinate the Meat: Cut the pork into medium-sized chunks and place them in a large bowl or resealable plastic bag. Pour the marinade over the meat, ensuring all pieces are well-coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight to enhance the flavor.
3. Prepare the Guava Leaves: While the meat is marinating, thoroughly wash the guava leaves. These leaves will be used to smoke the meat.
4. Smoke the Meat:
Set Up the Smoker: If you don’t have a smoker, you can create a simple smoking setup using a large pot with a lid and a metal rack or grill inside. Line the bottom of the pot with aluminum foil and place a layer of fresh guava leaves on top.
Prepare for Smoking: Heat the pot on the stove over medium heat until the guava leaves start to smoke gently.
Add the Meat: Place the marinated pork on the metal rack or grill inside the pot, above the smoking guava leaves. Cover the pot with a lid to trap the smoke. Let the meat smoke for about 3 hours.
5. Finish Cooking the Meat:
In a saucepan, add about an inch of neutral oil and fry the meat. Some recipes skip this step, some others rather grill it. This is completely up to you; I highly encourage trying both methods.
6. Serve: Serve the smoked “Carne de Chango” with rice, beans, and tortillas.
Now you can add a conversation starter dish to any celebration for September! I am always happy to hear from you at ale.borbolla@gringogazette.com
