Huaraches originated around the 1930s. They were created by Mrs. Carmen Gómez Medina, a food vendor from Mexico City. Gómez Medina used to try new recipes to attract more customers. It was then that she began experimenting with beans and corn to create a longer version of a tlacoyo. Unlike huaraches, tlacoyos contain ingredients like tomatoes, grasshoppers, avocado, or lettuce. Additionally, tlacoyos are made with a softer and more fragile tortilla compared to huaraches. Carmen didn’t stay in one place but sold her Mexican dishes at various markets throughout Mexico City.
They were called huaraches because their peculiar shape resembled the typical sandals of the same name. Another factor was that Mrs. Carmen made some holes in the tortilla to give them this characteristic shape. Little by little, Gómez Medina’s customers spread the word, and huaraches became more popular. Almost 90 years later, they are now part of traditional Mexican cuisine.
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It's fascinating how everyday objects, like clothing or footwear, have a much richer history than we might imagine. The example of the huarache is particularly significant. Although many of us know it as a traditional Mexican garment, not all of us may be aware of the cultural richness it embodies. The history of the huarache, which dates to pre-Columbian times and has its roots in the Purépecha communities, connects us to a long artisanal tradition that has evolved over time. Details such as the introduction of bovine leather after the arrival of the Spaniards or the use of ixtle or henequen in its early versions show how this piece has adapted and endured. The association of the huarache with rural life and its link to social status highlights how a simple object can reflect the structure of a society. Over time, different factors have contributed to the huarache’s rise in popularity, such as the incredible story of María Lorena Ramírez, the indigenous woman who won a marathon in her sandals, proving the comfort and resilience of huaraches.
The comfort of huaraches is largely due to the elastic properties of the leather, which molds to the shape of your foot. Today, we still see the “traditional huarache” silhouette, with woven designs that vary depending on the artisan’s imagination. Initially, huaraches were made with rawhide or rope soles, but now we find versions that include rubber and decorative details among their materials.
The comfort of huaraches (the food) comes from warm carbs full of flavor, a complete meal fast to make, portable and very inexpensive. Here’s how:
Ingredients:
- 1 kg of corn dough (masa) flour
- 2 tablespoons pork lard
- 1 cup refried beans
- Salt to taste
- Water
- For the green salsa:
- 3 green chilies
- 1 jalapeño
- 9 tomatoes
- 1/2 onion
- 2 cloves garlic
- Salt to taste
Procedure:
- In a bowl, mix the corn dough with half a cup of lukewarm water and a tablespoon of salt. Knead until you reach the desired consistency. If you can flatten a ball without the sides cracking, it’s perfect. If it’s too sticky, add more flour. If it’s too dry, add water little by little by wetting your hands and kneading.
- Form balls the size of an apple with the dough and flatten them. This will make a regular huarache which is about 40cm long, but you can make them smaller for practicality. Place refried beans in the center and reshape the balls, this time with an elongated shape, hence the name “huarache”.
- In a hot pan, add pork lard and heat it. Cook each huarache on both sides until golden and crispy. Repeat the process with the rest of the huaraches. If you want a version with less fat, just cook the huaraches on a comal or flat skillet with no oil until completely cooked on both sides, or even with a little char in spots.
- For the green salsa, roast the chilies and tomatoes in a pan without oil until a little past golden brown. I like mine with some char spots, also. Then, blend the roasted chiles and tomatoes with onion, garlic, half a liter of water, and salt, until you achieve the desired salsa consistency.
- Pour the green salsa over the huaraches when serving. You can add proteins like chicken, pork, chorizo, or steak.
- Customize your huaraches with toppings like cilantro, onion, or grated cheese.
Varieties of Huaraches and Authentic Flavors
Like many dishes in local cuisine, huaraches don’t have just one method of preparation. You can find different recipes with their own ingredients and techniques. For example:
- Sonoran Huaraches: Made with chopped pork cracklings and beef tongue birria, along with red salsa. The latter is made with tomatoes, onions, and árbol chiles. The Sonoran style is one of the most appreciated in Mexican cuisine.
- Steak Huaraches: A classic in traditional Mexican cuisine, this includes 1 pound of beef cut into strips. It’s important to marinate the meat beforehand with half an onion, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoons of olive oil.
- Campechano Huaraches: A recipe with steak and longaniza, cooked in a pan before being added to the huarache. The authentic recipe includes both red and green salsa and is topped with cheese, onion, and cilantro.
There’s a wide variety of recipes, as is the case with many Mexican dishes. After all, each region, town, or city usually adds its own ingredient or preparation method. This diversity is what makes Mexican cuisine so rich.
When serving, first place the huarache tortilla and then cover it with salsa. Next, add the proteins like steak, pork cracklings, or chorizo, and then the toppings. The most common ones are grated cheese, onion, and cilantro.
Huaraches are considered healthy due to their ingredients. Beans are low in fat and cholesterol, and corn provides fiber. Additionally, it’s recommended to pair them with lean proteins like chicken or steak. This can make them a great source of protein.
And that’s it. I am always happy to read and hear from you at ale.borbolla@gringogazette.com!
