Cooking Like a Mexican

Despite debates surrounding their origins, one of the most popular theories maintains that tacos de canasta, also known as "sweaty tacos," trace their roots to San Vicente Xiloxochitla, a locality situated 10 kilometers southwest of Tlaxcala de Xicohténcatl, the taco de canasta capital. Initially considered food for lower-income individuals such as laborers, peasants, and workers during the Porfiriato era, their history and popularity underwent a transformation after the Mexican Revolution. Even the upper classes began to enjoy these delicious bites, marking a shift in their culinary evolution and securing an enduring place in our country's culinary history.

Tacos de canasta not only represent a rich culinary tradition but also serve as a means of livelihood for many families in Xiloxochitla. To this day, a significant portion of the population is involved in their preparation and sale, often traveling daily to Mexico City to offer this delicacy to a hungry audience; they often wake as early as 3:00 am to travel to Mexico City and sell their goods. 

Today, tacos de canasta are an essential part of Mexican gastronomy enjoyed throughout the country, especially in urban areas, becoming emblematic of city life and undoubtedly one of the most beloved dishes among Mexicans.

The name "tacos de canasta" (basket tacos) comes from the ingenious way they were traditionally sold which was in a wicker basket. During that time, street vendors prepared large quantities of these delicious tacos and arranged them in the basket, wrapped in butcher paper or napkins. This clever method allowed them to keep the tacos warm and preserve their flavor while transporting them to different parts of the city.

The popularity of tacos de canasta grew very fast due to their practicality. These tacos, typically filled with various stews such as refried beans, potato with chorizo, pressed pork rinds, or shredded chicken tinga, catered to diverse tastes with their range of options. Also, street vendors could carry their basket of tacos on foot or by bicycle, offering a quick and tasty meal to workers, students, and anyone seeking a delicious bite on the go. 

Over time, tacos de canasta became a common choice for outings, picnics, or family gatherings since they stayed warm for hours. Their unique flavor and practicality made them an essential and ideal item for any occasion.

Today, tacos de canasta are an icon of Mexican cuisine and are highly appreciated by both locals and tourists alike. These flavorful bites have transcended borders and have gained popularity in other countries as an authentic Mexican delight.

"Lady Tacos de Canasta" is the nickname of a popular street food vendor in Mexico City known for selling delicious tacos de canasta from a basket (canasta). Her real name is Marven, and she gained fame not only for the quality of her tacos but also for challenging traditional gender roles in street food vending. She became a symbol of empowerment and resilience, particularly in the context of a predominantly male-dominated industry.

Marven started selling tacos de canasta to support her family after losing her job. She quickly gained recognition for her dedication to her craft and for the unique flavors of her tacos. Her story resonated widely, and she became a cultural figure celebrated for her entrepreneurial spirit and for breaking barriers in the street food scene.

Her nickname, "Lady Tacos de Canasta," reflects both her association with the traditional Mexican dish and her pioneering role as a female street food vendor. She has been featured in documentaries, media stories, and cultural discussions highlighting her impact on street food culture and her role in promoting gender inclusivity and empowerment in entrepreneurship.

Overall, Lady Tacos de Canasta represents more than just a street food vendor; she symbolizes resilience, creativity, and the transformative power of entrepreneurship in challenging societal norms.

To make your own tacos de canasta you will need a canasta, but a large vessel will do. I have even seen tacos de canasta being served from buckets. 

Ingredients:

• 1/2 tablespoon corn oil
• 1/2 onion, finely chopped
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 500 grams pressed pork rinds (chicharrón prensado)
• 4 guajillo chiles, seeded and soaked in hot water
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 wicker basket
• 1 clean plastic bag
• Butcher paper (papel estraza)
• 2 guajillo chiles, seeded and soaked in hot water
• 1/2 liter corn oil
• 20 freshly bought taco tortillas
• 2 onions, sliced
• Clean kitchen towel

Instructions:

1. For the filling: heat 1/2 tablespoon of oil in a pan and fry the finely chopped onion and garlic until translucent. Add the pressed pork rinds (chicharrón) and cook for another 5 minutes. Blend the 4 guajillo chiles with 1/2 cup of water until smooth. Strain and add to the onion and pork rind mixture. Mix well and cook for a few more minutes until the liquid reduces.
2. Prepare the basket: place a clean plastic bag inside the wicker basket and line it with butcher paper, ensuring the edges of the paper are left outside. Blend 2 guajillo chiles with 1/2 liter of corn oil until smooth. Heat the mixture and set aside.Assembly: fill the tortillas with the prepared pork rind mixture. Arrange a layer of tacos inside the basket, then add some of the hot chile oil and sliced onion. Repeat the process until all tacos are layered in the basket. Close the plastic bag and wrap with a clean kitchen towel. Let rest for 40 minutes to allow the tacos to "sweat”.
3. Serve: unwrap the basket and serve the tacos de canasta hot. They are typically enjoyed with additional toppings such as salsa, chopped onion, and lime wedges.

These tacos can be filled with pretty much anything. Explore your flavors! Now, half of the success in tacos de canasta lies in the salsa, so here we go: 

Ingredients:

• 1/2 kg of tomatoes
• A handful of green chilies
• Salt
• 1/2 head of garlic
• Cilantro
• 1/2 onion

Instructions:

1. In a pot, bring water to a boil and add the tomatoes along with the green chilies. It's recommended not to use too many chilies unless you love very spicy sauces. You can gradually add them and taste to determine how spicy you want it.
2. Once cooked, allow the tomatoes and chilies to cool down before proceeding to the next steps.
3. Transfer the tomatoes to a blender. Start by adding two or three chilies (adjust to taste) and finely chopped 1/2 head of garlic.
4. Pour in a little water and begin blending. Remember, the amount of water should be minimal because the salsa for tacos de canasta should be thick.
5. Pour the blended mixture into the container where you'll store it.
6. Separately, chop the onion and cilantro.
7. Add the chopped cilantro and onion to the salsa. Use a spoon to mix them well so they integrate perfectly.
8. Finally, add a pinch of salt to enhance the flavors.

This salsa is meant to be thick and flavorful, perfect for serving with tacos de canasta. Adjust the number of chilies according to your preference for spiciness. Enjoy your homemade salsa! I am always available and happy to hear from you at ale.borbolla@gringogazette.com