BY ALEJANDRA BORBOLLA
The best seafood you will ever have is in Mexico, no question (and overall food, for that matter). The oldest evidence of shrimp consumption in ancient Mexico dates back to the pre-Columbian era, with archaeological findings indicating that shrimp were part of the diet in coastal regions of Mexico. One significant site is the shell deposits at La Blanca, in the state of Chiapas, which provide evidence of shrimp consumption dating to around 300 BC.
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One of the most popular seafood dishes in Mexican cuisine is Aguachile. It is a traditional Mexican dish with roots in the coastal regions of Mexico, particularly in Sinaloa and Nayarit. The name "aguachile" translates to "chili water", which describes the dish's preparation method.
One theory suggests that aguachile may have originated among the Sinaloa or Nayarit indigenous communities, where fresh seafood, particularly shrimp, was abundant. These communities would have combined locally available ingredients such as chili peppers, lime juice, and herbs to create a spicy and flavorful sauce to accompany and preserve their seafood.
Many foreigners are a little nervous about eating lime-cured seafood, and I completely understand but I also urge you to try it, knowing it is safe (but still under your responsibility). Lime juice contains citric acid, which causes the proteins in seafood to denature. This process changes the proteins' structure, effectively "cooking" the fish without heat. The acidity also creates an environment hostile to bacteria, adding a level of preservation and safety.
The discovery that seafood can be "cooked" with lime juice likely comes from ancient culinary practices in coastal regions where access to fresh fish and citrus fruits was abundant. This technique, now crucial to dishes like aguachile, is an example of an early form of food preservation and preparation.
Indigenous peoples in what is now Mexico had access to abundant seafood and citrus fruits like limes and sour oranges. These fruits’ acidic properties were known to preserve food and add flavor. Early coastal inhabitants probably discovered that marinating fish in citrus juice could break down proteins and kill bacteria, making the seafood safe to eat without traditional cooking. Both Aztec and Mayan cultures had extensive knowledge of local ingredients and sophisticated culinary techniques. They used various acids and spices to prepare and preserve foods. The introduction of lime by the Spanish in the 16th century further integrated this method into local cuisines, creating a culinary technique that spread and evolved into the aguachile and ceviche we know today.
Aguachile Negro is a refreshing and spicy Mexican seafood dish perfect for this weather. Here’s my take on one of my favorite recipes:
Aguachile Negro
Ingredients:
Shrimp Marinade: (not really a marinade, but fundamental to “cook”)
- 1.5 pounds jumbo shrimp, cleaned and butterflied
- 1 cup fresh lime juice
- ½ teaspoon salt
- ¼ teaspoon black pepper
Salsa Negra:
- 10 dried arbol chiles*, stems removed
- 20 dried piquin chiles*
- 2 garlic cloves, unpeeled
- 1 teaspoon rock salt or sea salt
- 3 tablespoons soy sauce
- 3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
- 3 tablespoons Jugo Maggi
- ⅓ cup Clamato (tomato and clam juice cocktail)
- For the aguachile:
- 2 cucumbers, peeled, seeds scooped out, and sliced
- ½ red onion, thinly sliced
- Avocado slices (for serving)
- Corn tortilla tostadas (for serving)
Instructions:
1. Marinate the Shrimp:
Place the shrimp in a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Add lime juice, ensuring the shrimp are fully submerged. Cover and refrigerate for 25 minutes to "cook”.
2. Prepare the Salsa Negra:
Heat a skillet over medium heat and toast the garlic cloves and dried chiles until char spots form, about 30-45 seconds. Remove from heat and peel the garlic. These are the chiles I recommend, but you can try with different chiles as long as you char them to make sure the aguachile is black.
In a molcajete (or blender), grind the rock salt and garlic cloves into a paste. Add the toasted chiles and grind until they break down into small pieces or a powder. Watch out if using a blender. This might irritate your nose and throat.
Add half of the lime juice from the marinated shrimp to the molcajete. Stir and scrape the sides to mix in all the garlic paste and chile flakes. Stir in the soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, Jugo Maggi, and Clamato.
3. Combine and Serve:
Add cucumbers and red onion to the bowl with the marinated shrimp and remaining lime juice. Mix well.
Pour the molcajete mixture over the shrimp and vegetables, folding in all ingredients.
Serve with avocado slices and corn tortilla tostadas for a delightful combination of flavors and textures.
If you want this to look fancier, you can serve in the molcajete. Enjoy! I am always available at ale.borbolla@gringogazette.com
