Frijoles puercos vs frijoles charros. Frijoles are a staple in Mexican food, and commonly viewed as a side dish but they are so much more! Frijoles are also a soup in many Mexican households. The origins of beans are widely credited to central Mexico (specifically to the regions of modern-day states of Jalisco and Durango) and throughout South America. Oftentimes, beans were grown in tandem with maize (corn) and squash as a farming technique to efficiently maximize the soil often referred to as sister crops, and to minimize soil erosion. These nutritional superheroes are loaded with protein and fiber, and they’ve been a staple in Mexican cooking since the beginning. They also taste better when you make them at home, and once you see how easy it is to keep a stocked fridge of beans you might never go back to buying them in a can. There’s always a container (usually yogurt or ice cream) full of cooked beans in Mexican freezers. 

There are two dishes that I will explain and give recipes for this edition and for a good reason: they are often mistaken for one another. First, frijoles puercos. This recipe comes from the state of Sinaloa and is a side dish, an appetizer or a snack with totopos. Frijoles puercos translates to dirty beans, and are served at every party too, Christmas, weddings, christenings, you name it. They are a little “dryer” than charros, they have less liquid.  

Now, frijoles charros. For starters, the most direct translation of the word “charro” to English would be “cowboy”, but Mexican charros are much different than the idea of the American cowboy, with a culture, etiquette, mannerism, clothing style and social status that is quite unique. The history of the charro goes back to the Spanish Conquest when ranch owners would outfit their cowboys with distinctive clothing and saddles to signify status and wealth. During the Mexican War of Independence, charros played an important role on both sides of the war, riding in private troops. Around the 1930s, “charrería” became a national event, popularized by the charros of Jalisco and the state of Mexico, and grew to become Mexico’s national sport. Charrería is best described as a mix of rodeo skills and show, with riders performing traditional competitive roping and ranch skills, but also exquisite costumes, custom tack and horse grooming, and horsemanship skills like making horses “dance”. Charros came up with the idea to make this dish as they threw in a pot everything they had on hand- beans, chorizo, chiles and garlic. Back in those times, the trips were long and the nights very cold, so their invention kept them warm and well-fed. 

Frijoles charros have fallen into the hands of Texmex cooking and borrowed to make what some people call cowboy beans, but trust me when I say, frijoles charros have no competition. I mean, don’t take me wrong- I am not one of those Mexican purists who bashes on Texmex (as long as it’s not labelled Mexican authentic) but frijoles charros are, well, frijoles charros. These are not refired; they are whole and not a side dish but more like a soup. They are mostly served in the North of Mexico although Jalisco claims the recipe (since charros are from Jalisco). 

To cook beans (for either recipe, or any for that matter):

Place two cups of uncooked beans, ¼ of a white onion, 2 peeled cloves of garlic, and 8 cups of water. Cook for about two hours after they break to a boil until tender. DO NOT ADD SALT, they will harden. You can season them after. -I don’t believe in soaking them overnight, but it’s your call.

Frijoles puercos:

Ingredients: 

• 2 cups of pinto beans, cooked. 
• 1 cup of the bean liquid. 
• 3 oz of chorizo. 
• 2 oz of Chihuahua cheese (can be substituted for Monterrey jack or any melty, rich cheese)
• 1 tablespoon of chopped jalapeño peppers (chiles en vinagre)
• 1 tablespoon of pork lard (can be substituted with butter)
• Salt to taste
• Bottle hot sauce (to your preference, and completely optional)

Procedure: 

1. Puree the beans in the blender, and add a little of the liquid they were cooked in, but not the whole cup. Just enough so you have a nice thick paste. 
2. In a very hot pan, cook and crumble the chorizo as you go, and fry in its own fat until crispy. 
3. Add the beans, and once these start to boil, add the cheese and chile chunks. 
4. Add the lard or butter and stir constantly; they will start to thicken. 
5. Add a few drops of bottled hot salsa, Valentina for example. 
6. Let them cool a little, they will be scalding hot!
7. Serve with tortilla chips or as a side dish and enjoy! 

Frijoles Charros: 

Ingredients: 

• 2 cups of cooked bayo beans.
• ½ of a white onion, chopped. 
• 1 clove of garlic, minced. 
• 3 ½ oz of chorizo. 
• 3 ½ of bacon. 
• 3 ½ oz of chopped ham (or sausage)
• 1 large tomato, chopped. 
• 1 serrano chile, chopped (to taste).
• 1 cup of cilantro, chopped. 
• 1 cup of pork grinds 
• Salt to taste

Procedure: 

1. Place cooked beans in a large pot and set aside. 
2. In a hot pan, fry the chorizo and bacon until cooked in their own fat. Add the chopped ham or sausage and cook. 
3. After about five minutes, add the chopped onion, garlic and chiles and cook until tender. 
4. Add the chopped tomato and let it cook until soft. 
5. Add all the cooked ingredients to the beans and bring to a soft simmer. 
6. The consistency should not be too thick, add water if needed. (or beer, this gives them a whole new level of flavor) 
7. Season with salt 
8. Serve with crumbled pork grinds on top and enjoy as a soup, entrée or side dish!

I’m always happy to hear from you at ale.borbolla@gringogazette.com with questions, ideas, photos and anything you might need!