Appreciating food. Savoring a dish with closed eyes. Slowly experiencing layers of flavor dancing together, then apart, creating a deep sensory experience.
As humans, our relationship with food has evolved from a basic survival need to a complex one. We use food and eating as a tool for our different needs, such as to nourish ourselves, to socialize or to cope with stress. Yet, aside from these and the sheer pleasure food brings to us, food provides comfort, and triggers memories, and sensations of nostalgia.
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This appreciation for food brought me to this unique conversation with Chef Sergio Hermandez, who became an executive chef at the age of 36, something he could never have imagined at the age of 15 when he had his first kitchen job in a little town in Baja California Sur.
“I was born and raised in the tiny city of Constitution just a few hours north of La Paz. The city welcomed a lot of migrants from other major Mexican cities back in the 70s and 80s to work in the cotton industry. Similarly, my parents also migrated to Baja from Durango and Mexicali, and like the Constitution, these two states were also heavily influenced by migration. As a kid, our colony was filled with people from all over Mexico and early on I was spoiled with an insane exposure to what Mexican food could be and was evolving towards.”
To Chef Sergio, Mexican cuisine is a fusion of ingredients, techniques and flavors borrowed and adapted to a local and cultural setting. This is even more prevalent in areas with high migration patterns, and Baja Sur definitely falls under that category to him.
“Mexican cuisine has influences from many countries. For example, from Africa, we got some of our bean and corn dishes, bolillos from France or salsa matcha from Asia. This part of Baja does not have a regional dish, per say, that has not been adapted from another state. To me, the magic of representing Mexico on a plate is the alchemy of Los 32 sabores, representing the flavours of Mexico’s 32 states.”
Chef Sergio started working in kitchens when he was fifteen. By the time he was twenty-four, he moved to Santa Rosalia and worked in the El Bolero’s industrial kitchen, feeding the mine’s workers, working his way up to the assistant sous chef. This is also where Chef Sergio’s exceptional culinary skills were discovered.
“Santa Rosalia shares a deep root with France and Baja’s unique French connection, more so in architecture than in food, a connection that I got to appreciate over the years living there. A few years ago, an opportunity was offered to me that allowed for full autonomy on my culinary creativity and allowed me to serve and participate in the preservation of a historical building here in La Paz.”
“This building has played a key role in promoting and sharing French culture and language with the residents of La Paz. In May of 1913, the property was built as a private residence by the Geoffroy family, former residents of Santa Rosalía who also worked at the El Boleo, and in 1993, it became La Paz’s Alliance Francaise Cultural Centre for a few years.”
When the decision to preserve the beauty, heritage and history of the building was being discussed, talks about a restaurant emerged. Finding an appropriate executive chef meant finding one that could simultaneously connect and appreciate the rich history of the building as well as offer a culinary experience that embodies and celebrates the wholeness of Mexican cuisine.
Chef Sergio was the obvious choice. His team and he have been creating magic, serving Mexican soul food while guests enjoy the charm of this beautiful heritage building. He loves sharing his passion with anyone curious to discover the depth of Mexican cuisine. To share this experience with him, you can find Chef Sergio by searching Los 32 Sabores on Opentable.
